SIGNS YOUR COLONY IS QUEENLESS

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Queenlessness is one of the most common ways for new beekeepers to lose their colony. There are many ways a colony can end up without a queen and likewise there are various methods of correcting the problem. Read on to learn the signs of a queenless colony and what to do when it happens to you!

First, I want to get a little vocabulary and basic beekeeping information out of the way. A hive with a queen is called “queenright”, a hive without a queen is called “queenless”. Queen bees are vital to a colony because the are the only bee capable of laying fertilized eggs. Fertilized eggs may become either a worker bee or a queen bee depending on what they are fed. Worker bee larvae are fed royal jelly for the first few days of their life and then switched to a pollen and honey diet. Queen bees, however, are only ever fed royal jelly.  This means that worker bees are able to convert any young worker bee larvae to a queen should they need to (an emergency queen). Young is the operative word here. The worker bees have only a short window of time to convert one of the last of their dead queen’s larvae into a new queen before all the larvae have aged beyond the point of conversion. This is a precarious position for a colony to be in. Many colonies succeed in making a new queen and go on, but many other fail. These colonies are now unable to make a new queen, because all the larvae laid by their old queen are now too old. So what happens to those colonies? In the wild they will gradually weaken and then perish, but in a managed hive a beekeeper can step in and reverse the colony’s fate! Unfortunately, when the queen is missing it’s not always obvious to the novice beekeeper. The bees do not all instantly perish as some imagine, however there are many tell-tale signs.

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Symptoms of a Queenless Hive

  1. 1. Lack of Eggs & Brood- The queen bee is the only bee in the hive who can lay fertilized worker bee eggs. So, a queenless colony’s first symptom will be a lack of eggs (shown below) followed by a lack of young brood (shown above) and then finally the absence of brood entirely. Students of mine know this is the reason why they must always check for fresh eggs during inspections. If you catch a queenless colony early, you can get them queenright before too much damage is done. *It should also be noted that you can have this symptom and still have a queen. Your queen may have stopped laying because she’s no longer fertile or she is taking what is called a “brood break” which is one way bees attempt to control the spread of brood disease. An infertile queen will need to be replaced, while a queen taking a brood break should resume laying shortly.*
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2. A Drop in Population- Worker bees die every day of natural or unnatural causes, but in a queenless colony they cannot be replaced! This means the population will start to drop. Normally, by the time this symptom is noticeable  the colony has been queenless for many weeks.

  1. 3. An Increase in Honey & Pollen- Worker bees who were previously occupied with the task of caring for brood will soon be out of the job because there will be no more brood. This creates a job imbalance in the hive and may result in increased foraging and food stores. *Note that something similar to this can occur in queenright hives during a strong nectar flow when the colony needs more space.  It’s called a “honey bound” hive. The bees will prioritize storing food and crowd out the queen’s brood nest, leaving her no comb to lay eggs in. A beekeeper can resolve this by adding another super (or more top bars) and then moving 2-4 honey frames out of the brood nest to make room  for new comb to be drawn out for the queen to lay in.*

4. A Change in Temperament- There are also some more subtle signs of queenlessness that arise in the form of temperament. Queenless bees are often irritated or nervous. They make a high pitched whine combined with a low roar, but even experienced beekeepers cannot always identify the sound. I have also heard from an old timer that the foragers of a queenless colony will spread their wings in K formation and walk around a bit near the entrance before flying off to forage, while foragers in queenright hives, keep their wings folded in and take off straight away. I haven’t tested this thoroughly though yet.

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5. Queen Cells/Cups- A queenless colony often attempts to make a replacement queen. It can be tricky figuring out exactly what is going on in your hive, but queen cells and cups will provide useful clues. When you see a queen cell, check to see what stage it is in. Is there a larva in it? Is it capped? Did it hatch or is it just an empty queen cup (shown above)? Sometimes, the bees succeed in making a new queen, but that queen fails. If this is the case you will see hatched queen cells, but no other signs of a queen. Hatched queen cells will have a jagged edge around the hole of the cell, no larva inside and may even still have a cap hanging. Think: edge of an opened can. *Be careful if you see hatched queen cells and no other signs of a queen, your colony could actually have a virgin queen who is not yet laying. Virgins are hard to spot because they move quickly and are much smaller.* More often queenless colonies will have only empty queen cups, which shows that your colony lost it’s queen and wants to make a replacement, but doesn’t have the fertilized eggs available to do so.

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6. Laying Workers- If your colony is queenless for too long, they may develop laying workers. Although the queen bee is the only bee in the hive capable of laying fertilized eggs, worker bees are female and therefore in possession of ovaries, meaning they can lay eggs. The hitch is they can only lay unfertilized eggs. Remember: worker bees never went on a mating flight. Unfertilized eggs do develop and hatch, but they do not become worker bees, they become male bees or drones. Normally worker bees do not lay eggs. Fertilized brood laid by a queen produces a pheromone that suppresses workers from laying. However, if a queen is absent from the hive for too long, the worker bees will begin to lay eggs. Once this starts, it is very difficult to get the colony queenright again. I intend to write a separate post in the future on how to deal with laying workers so stay tuned. A colony with laying workers will have eggs and brood in the hive, but you will see multiple eggs per cell (shown above). A queen typically lays just one egg per cell. You will also see only drone brood and usually also an increase in the adult drone population. So how long does a colony have before the workers start laying? Unfortunately, I can’t answer that question. It is different with every hive. That is why it is imperative that you catch queenlessness early and correct it right away. One way of buying yourself a little time is to put open brood from a queenright colony into your queenless colony. The bees may even be able to make a new queen from that brood and correct the problem altogether.

*None of these symptoms by themselves will absolutely indicate that your colony is without its queen. Many of them could mean something else entirely. I have tried to mention some of these easily confused scenarios above with an asterisk, but have not listed them all. A queenless colony will usually have more than one of the above signs present, if you see just one, you may want to try one of the below tests to confirm or debunk your suspicions.

How to Test for Queenlessness

  1. Give your bees a frame of open brood from a queenright colony. Wait 2-5 days and then check to see if they are attempting to make emergency queens on that frame. It’s a good idea to mark the top of this frame in some way, so you don’t have to go through the whole colony searching for the frame that may or may not have queen cells. If you see emergency queen cells, then your colony is queenless. If you don’t see any queen cells, you might have misdiagnosed the situation.
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Place a caged queen on the tops of the frames and study the reaction. If your colony is queenless, they will stream towards the caged queen, sometimes fanning or flitting their wings. If your colony is queenright, they will react aggressively towards the caged queen. They will bite and sting the cage. You will have a hard time getting the bees off the cage, they won’t want to let go. On several occasions I have mistakenly thought a queenright colony to be queenless. Each time it was a colony that had a new virgin queen that was not yet laying. This is one of the reasons I always study the reaction of the bees when installing a new queen. If you place a new queen in a queenright colony while the other queen is still alive, the bees will kill the caged queen.

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CORRECTION: The ruler states: “If you see capped worker brood, you KNOW there was a queen 9 days ago” In fact, without knowing how long it’s been capped, you can only be sure there was a queen 20 ±1 days ago. The bee may emerge tomorrow, 20 days after egg being laid.

Getting Your Colony Queenright

There are several variations on techniques getting your queenless colony queenright again, but they break down into two basic choices: Installing an adult queen that you bought or allowing the bees to make their own queen from young brood taken from a queenright colony. Choosing the best method for your hive, will likely depend on how long that colony has been queenless. To determine this, you will need to utilize some bee math! It takes 21 days to go from fertilized egg to worker bee. Therefore a colony with no brood has been queenless for more than 21 days because all the queen’s brood has all hatched. If you see no eggs, but you see very small larvae then you’ve caught the problem early! An egg only stays an egg for 3 days and larvae only stays uncapped for about 8 days. If you see only capped larvae, then you likely lost your queen somewhere between 11 and 20 days before. Make sense? Check out the bee math ruler above for more calculations.

Installing a queen is usually the fastest and surest way to get your colony queenright again. If your colony has been queenless for awhile, you may opt for this method. The longer a colony goes without a queen, the more likely they are to develop laying workers and the greater the negative impact on the population there will be. A queen can be purchased for $20-50 plus the cost overnight shipping. You will receive your queen in a small cage containing the queen and usually several worker bees. The cage is meant to delay the queen’s release into the colony and to protect her while the colony gets used to her smell. One end of the cage will have a candy plug. Over a period of 2-5 days the bees will chew away the candy allowing for the queen to escape the cage. The idea is that by the time the candy is gone, the bees have adjusted to the new queen’s smell and will readily accept her. Make sure you install the queen cage in a populous part of the hive and that the screen is accessible to the worker bees. That way they can feed her. Generally speaking this means the queen should be placed in the center of the hive. From the point of release, it may take anywhere from 0-7 days for the queen to start laying eggs. Your queen should already be mated, but it  may take her a few days to adjust to her new environment and start laying eggs. In a situation where a colony is queenless, the bees are desperate for a new queen and aren’t too choosy about her.  So, with this knowledge, some beekeepers may even choose to skip the delayed release altogether and just let the queen out of her cage right away. There is a small risk that the bees will kill the queen instead of accepting her, but the advantage is that you will not have to wait the typical 3-5 days for delayed release. Either way, installing a queen will typically get your hive queenright again in less than a week.

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Allowing the bees to make their own queen can take much longer. It will take bees a minimum of 15 days to raise a new queen from brood and at least another 5 days for that queen to mate and start laying. Remember with each passing day, bees are dying and not being replaced so, if your colony is small, you may want to buy a queen instead. There is also the added risk that the bees will not succeed in making a new queen or that the queen they make will perish during her mating flight and you will have to start over again. Depending on the time of year, it may not even be viable for a new queen to mate since drones can be scarce during the fall and winter months.  So in what situations should you let your bees make their own queen? What are the advantages? 1. A naturally bred queen will have the advantage of feral genes which may make for a stronger, healthier colony and will also preserve genetic diversity amongst your apiary. You might also increase the chance of this effect by taking brood from one of your best colonies. Please note that in areas with Africanized bees, feral genes can also result in bees that are more defensive. 2. It’s a simpler way to fix the problem that costs no money and requires less work from the beekeeper. If you suspect your colony is queenless, you can take a frame of eggs from a neighboring queenright colony right then, check in 3 days to see if they are making a queen cell, then check back in 15-20 days to see if the queen is laying. If you install a queen you have to open your hive at least four times and you have to find a queen for sale, order it etc. 3. Another advantage is if it’s late in the season and no one is selling queens anymore, you can try this method: you might succeed.

To sum this all up. Making sure your colony has a queen should be a priority during inspections. Catching queenlessness early is vital to the survival of your colony. A good way to stay on top of this is to take notes! Keep a record of what you see in your hive every time you inspect. If you use a template like the one I created below for my hive inspection notebook (available in my shop), it can also serve as a guideline for your inspections. That way, you won’t forget to check for eggs! If you discover that your colony is queenless weigh your options and decide whether you’d rather buy a queen or let them make their own then, get busy! Queenless is a problem that you should not sit on.

Hive Inspection Notebook

If you find that you are quite sure what your doing in your hives, you might want to check out my new online Introduction to Beekeeping class! You can stream it from anywhere in the world and watch it as many times as you’d like! Even intermediate level beekeepers have benefitted from this class, which is offered in person by yours truly in San Diego, California every month. The online version is a combination of fascinating footage and still images with interactive narration throughout. It’s not your typical Introductory class which often only covers the kind of equipment you need to buy with a brief synopsis of the honey bee lifecycle. This class is packed with absolutely everything you need to know to get started with bees! Plus, it focuses on natural, bee-centric, sustainable beekeeping practices.

54 Comments

Emily Scott

Great explanations here. I had some terrible queen problems with one hive last summer. I’m not sure whether some genetic problems were involved or I was just unlucky with the weather as two new queens the bees produced turned out to be drone layers. Lots of errors on my part too, for example for a couple of weeks I failed to notice she had got into the supers (was just checking the brood boxes for eggs). The colony produced lots of honey and didn’t become aggressive exactly but the lack of worker brood made them more irritable than usual. Luckily a friend was able to combine my hive with his nearby queen-right one in the end. Enjoying your blog.

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Kristina

Hi, we have had our bees since June. They seemed to be doing well. When we went to check the hive (a 2 week gap between last check) and we have only about 100 bees from what was 3k. No signs of a queen, no eggs, no brood, and no honey. Can we save the remaining bees with a new queen? Or is it too late?

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Hilary

Hi Kristina,

I doubt it. Do you have a second colony or just the one? Do you know why their population dropped? See last week’s post about WHY DID MY BEES LEAVE?

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Susan T Rudnicki

Michael Bush has some excellent remedies for laying worker and queenless hives
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslayingworkers.htm

I have had good success with putting a queenright colony below the laying worker hive, topped with a double screen board, with the laying worker colony above. Each group has its own entrance, the pheromones of the queen right group waft up into the off-kilter group, and in 10-14 days—you combine everyone together as a new hive.

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Lynn & Shane Loftin

Well here’s the run down. My wife and I decided to get into some backyard beekeeping this year. We bought all the basics needed, purchased package bees, with a mated queen. The bees arrived in mid April. The post office called and told us to come get them 4 DAYs after they were supposed to have been delivered. Needless to say the package of bees had been weekened and there were a lot of dead ones. We took them home and released them into their new home. We hoped they would recover…they tried but eventually gave up, the queen left, and took what was left with her. There was only a hand full of bees left with her. They left in mid may. Well we were bummed out because nobody had any more packages left and nobody would split, so we cleaned everything up, left he vacant hive out and just sulked thinking we were going to have to wait till next year to try again. Well low and behold on June 3 my wife was cutting grass close to the hive and noticed she was in a the middle of a massive swarm flying around and crawling in/out and all over the once vacant hive boxes. She managed to get out of the midst of them in a ‘calm’ manner without getting stung thankfully. Had to change under wear and clean the seat off the mower. Lol. I wish I had been home for that one. To hear her tell about it still cracks me up. Just really glad she’s ok. Anyways. We left them alone until June 9 and we opened up to inspect. HOLY MOLY!! there had to be 30k+ bee in there. Unfortunately I didn’t have but 3 frames in the top box and they had already built out 6 massive rows of comb on the lid divider. We pulled all that comb off, inspected for the queen. Couldn’t find her. Could have easily missed her too though. There are ALOT of bees. We looked in the bottom box (which was full of frames), inspected those and still couldn’t find the queen. Again there are ALOT of bees and we could have missed her. Upon inspection of the comb and covered frames, we noticed there were no brood, or eggs, just LOTS of nectar stores and pollen. We contact an apiary and gave him the run down. He stated our queen could be off on her virgin flight. He said to give it till Sunday 12th, and reinspect for eggs and brood. If we have that then we should be good to go. If we don’t then we need to get a mated queen asap. Which he has and can get her to us Monday if we let him know sunday. My concern is the timing. I hate to get a queen and not need her, if my queen is just out and about having “fun” and decided to stay out just one more day. And on the other hand I know a queenless hive is bad and needs to requeened immediately to lessen impact of dieing bees. Just looking for a second opinion whether you agree or disagree, I am open. I just want to do what is right and have a successful colony to watch this year and learn. I feel like I can’t learn enough fast enough. Thanks in advance for any advice or input you may send our way.
Respectfully Lynn (me) & Shane (my wife) in mid TN.

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Liz Bateman

Great site! I’m new at this and have a nuc that a beekeeper is experimenting with. We just replaced the old queen with a virgin queen. My question is: there is a hornet/wasp? flying around the nuc and I’m worried he will not only kill bees but also the queen when she goes on her mating flight. Any suggestions on how to deal with this pesky wasp? Thank you.

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Hilary

I don’t worry about wasps unless I have a weak hive. If the hive is weak, reduce the entrance.

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Mike Soumis

a bear busted up my hive, I put it all back together, couldn’t find the queen but there was capped brood in there so I thought she must be somewhere here, just can’t see her.The bee numbers kept decreasing and after it was too late I found out that the eggs were just like rotted in the cells, there like liquid. Any idea’s what could have happened? I’m a second year beekeeper. 3 other hives are doing great. The hive has failed completely.

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Hilary

If I saw a picture, I might be able to say. Hard to tell from your description. Hmm…

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Wendy Borders

I am a first year beekeeper. I know that we’re told to always look for eggs/brood but is there a time of year when a normal queen is not laying much? When I inspected during a dearth in August, there was very little brood but could that be normal?

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Hilary

Hi Wendy,

Yes, good questions. Sometimes during a dearth a queen will take a break from laying eggs. Also, if the bees have a new queen it takes her up to 3 weeks before she starts laying. So, if you think it could be either scenario, I would just keep a close eye. However, looking at capped brood or even larvae is not the same as seeing eggs. You will have capped brood for awhile after having lost a queen, but you won’t see eggs.

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Ron Lane

What is your source(s) for purchasing queens? Preferably treatment free queens or those bred for mite resistance. Thank you.

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Hilary

I think finding a local TF breeder will best serve your needs because the bees will be best equipped to live in your climate. Here in Southern California, I usually order from Wildflower Meadows.

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Sue

A very interesting read. I was overjoyed to see my two first year hives alive and currently bringing in pollen (April 11/2017) from where I am not sure. You can imagine my ” bee glee” especially with some very cold -20celcius weather. I am one of those beekeeper s who has yet to spot her obviously unmarked queens.
Cheers !
Sue Bee Honey 🐝

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sharla trout

we recently moved and possibly lost the queen as new queen cells were built. We obviously did not act sooner, because the hive also swarmed. Is it usual for a hive to swarm after hatching a new queen?

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Hilary

If they built swarm queen cells on the edges of the comb it is pretty common for them to send out more than one swarm and the after swarms will contain newly hatched queens. It can take up to 3 weeks after a swarm for the new queen to start laying eggs.

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Darcy Lofing

I’m a first year beekeeper. I found a swarm in my yard that was my start. It was a large swarm that hung around for two days, I’m guessing because the weather was turning…crazy Idaho spring. That was April 12th. Checked them one month later. I can’t find a queen or eggs but I do have capped worker brood, looks like some pollen cells and honey. Does that mean that I have a queen in there somewhere? They have the brood box full.

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Hilary

Pollen and honey do not indicate that there is a queen. If you have capped brood it means there was a queen in there at some point. Do you see any larvae? Eggs are hard to see for most people. Keep trying. Use a flashlight to light up the cell maybe even a magnifying glass.

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Darcy Lofing

Thank you..I will keep looking. I think I seen nectar also. There are just so many bees!

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stanley chua

after the hive has been taken away from under the roof, will the remaining bees make a new nest again.

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Mike webb

I am thinking of re-queening a hive that has a poor laying queen. should the hive be eggless before re-queening?

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Hilary

It should not matter if their are eggs or not. Just make sure you check for and destroy any queen cells the bees may try to build to supersede the queen you install.

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John

Hillary I love these tips they are all great. I have been beekeeping for over 50 years learned from my great uncle. I seldom see such good advice about beekeeping. Thank you so much. Like you said a queenless colony can be noticeable almost right off. There is a distinct change in the tone and mood of the girls. Instead of the contended busy hum they seem to all be joining in making a restless discontented higher tone sound . I would just suggest when doing an inspection always just slow down and take your time noticing as many details as you can . From the entrance activity of foragers and guards all the way through. your bees are the best teachers just take your time to listen. Thanks for your contribution.

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Hilary

Hi John,

Thanks for the hire praise. You are so right. Slowing down and observing the bees is the best way to learn.

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Dean Jore

Great site, nice work on information delivery. I have a question about something I see while looking for the queen, which I haven’t found. I have seen emerging larvae, almost fully developed and extending nearly all the way out of the cells. Would that be a queen killing another emerging queen? Or would we not see that evidence? I don’t want to wait too long to requeen, but I don’t want to just react and stick another queen in the hive if the problem is being taken care of. I have seen small larvae. I also know I need to do a better inspection before I make a decision. Thanks for your time and assistance, Dean J.

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Hilary

Hi, I’m having a hard time understanding you. What are you seeing in your hive?

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John

I just stumbled on your site and love it. Very informative! Perhaps you can help me…about 4 weeks ago my hive (new this year) was kicking butt. All 8 frames nice and heavy full of brood/honey/pollen…really text book. Added my super 7 days later (probably should have added 2nd broodbox). Then, 11 days ago, the colony swarmed. Ok…no biggie. Kind of expected it.
This week, I noticed a ton of activity at hive entrance with a lot of drones noted. Figured potential mating flights with new queen
Then yesterday, saw workers pulling almost fully developed larvae (all drone larvae) out of the hive. Today I inspected the hive and noticed mostly open cells, no eggs, no visible queen, and very very little capped honey. There were what seemed to be “hatched” queen cells. The number of bees seemed much better than I expected. No evidence of disease nor mite or beetle infestation. Also, not seeing workers return with pollen and honey bee activity around my property is way down
I’d appreciate your thoughts as I’m new to beekeeping and this has me a little concerned
Thanks

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Hilary

When your colony swarms it can take up to 3 weeks for the new queen to hatch and start laying eggs again. Keep an eye on them and make sure they end up queen right, but it sounds normal to me. If they are pulling out drone brood it might be because now that they swarmed there are too many drones and it had created an imbalance that they are trying to correct. They may be short on honey and not want to spend it on drones.

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Leandro Zuniga

Hi there, is it ok to put a frame with bees in a hive with a different qeen? I mean taking the frame from a totally different qeen!

Thanks

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Bill Ofca

Four weeks ago I added newly purchased mated queens (from Wildflower Meadows) to two of my hives that had gone queenless. Five days after installing them inspection revealed they had been released from their cages. One hive has shown increased pollen collection observed with returning foragers. The other hive shows no such pollen collection. Both hives have good activity with foragers in great numbers coming and going at the entrance. Does the hive that is not bringing in any pollen signify a problem?

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Hilary

Not necessarily. Each hive will be different. Best to look at the brood pattern to determine health.

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Kevin

I just checked one of my tree nucs i purchased two weeks ago and found one to be queenless no eggs no brood and lots of nectar filling the cells and the steady roar of the hive; so I borrowed a frame from each of the other two nucs.
Your Information was perfect; all the best to you

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Teja Kinney

Hi,
This year we installed our first (and only) hive, a Warre. Now, we have returned from a two-week long trip and have noticed changes in the colony. Firstly, the mite count soared from nearly nothing to very high (we powder-sugared them yesterday).

The entrance traffic is greatly decreased (I would guess by 1/2). We had just added another box prior to leaving, but it doesn’t seem to be any fuller and they’re barely building in it, if at all (they were package bees and filled the whole second box (with comb at least) in about three weeks, a great change). When we powder-sugared them, they were even calmer than usual, and when we opened the lid only a few came out. We can’t really inspect the hive, since it’s a Warre, without doing significant damage, but from though the window we can’t see any brood or larvae, except for a few (single digits) here and there. The first box is mostly filled with honey, which makes sense, but the second isn’t. All the cells we can see in the second are just sort of…empty…for the most part, aside from shallow nectar stores at the top. Previously it was full of brood. I suppose there may be eggs we can’t see, but in all eight frames? Oh, and I also noticed several (maybe 10) purple-eyed larva carcasses on the bottom screen.

Our main question now is whether these changes seem more symptomatic of Varroa or queenlessness. Can Varroa lead to these effects? I have read about some bees breaking the brood cycle to manage it? Could this be the case, and account for the differences? Or just a dearth. Or possibly the aftermath of a swarm? We honestly have no clue since we can’t actually open up the hive and inspect. Not being able to find out anything more than what we have currently, we were thinking of waiting another day or two to see if anything changes, and if not, then ordering another queen and seeing how they react to her.
Sorry for the wordy question and thank you so much! Your website has been incredibly helpful!

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Hilary

Why can’t you inspect the hive? Is it cross combed? You need to be able to inspect the hive to properly manage it. It is very possible that your bees are crashing from varroa. They may also have swarmed which could reduce the population. They may also be running out of honey. The empty comb was probably honey stores that have now vanished. It could be queenlesssness as well. Again, there is is no way to know if you can’t look at all the combs. You sound like you might benefit from my second online class which is about hive inspections https://vimeo.com/ondemand/hiveinspectionclass

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Teja

Sorry, I should have emphasized it more – it’s a warre, and frameless, so the combs attach to two walls and also somewhat to each other. Therefore we can’t pull the combs out without doing quite a lot of damage. Thank you anyway!

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Hilary

You should still be able to inspect a warre if it was designed correctly… cut the brace combs that attach the combs to the wall.

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Nate

Hey there. great Article.

I’m a new bee keeper in North Vancouver. we are coming into our fall here pretty soon. I just finished a Varroa Mite Treatment MQS and went to remove the pads last night. I had left the treatment on for 7 days as suggested.

I couldn’t find my queen when I went back in. I did find eggs in some of the brood frames but not a lot. Also, the bees have begun filling some of the brood chambers with honey.

The bees were also pissed off. Very loud last night and almost drove me off before I could finish inspection. we got through it.

I did harvest 7 medium frames of honey from a honey super before the mite treatment. Still a lot of honey in the two deep supers althought the bottom one is much lighter than the top. I found that weird.

I’ll close with my concerns.
1. Is my hive possibly queenless and is waitng the best thing to do right now?

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Hilary

Mite treatment sometimes kill or damage your queen. So, possibly. You will have to check again in 3-5 days for eggs. You said “they were very loud last night”….Are you inspecting your hives at night?

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Liz

Hi Hilary –
Curious if you can help clarify on something I’ve been trying to figure out for a while now and haven’t been able to find specs on anywhere.
So I’ve learned that often there are just queen cups around at the bottom of the frame and those are generally there in case the queen chooses to lay an egg in them because she decides to swarm. I have seen the cups sit there for weeks or a month, and then for whatever reason, the bees start building them out into the queen/swarm cell (peanut shape), even if its uncapped and doesn’t appear to have an egg or larvae inside.
My question is, at what stage of that queen cup being turned into that shape of a queen/ swarm cell should I panic? Do they sometimes just build it out even if there’s “nobody home” or is that cause for concern? (It’s possible I’m missing seeing the egg, but I’ve often removed the cells from the frame and inspected further.)
Thank you!

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Hilary

Hi Liz, Sometimes bees will build queen cups and never use them. They will sit empty. Other times they build them out. Usually you will see the cup start to become longer and if you look inside you will see a bunch of white royal jelly. On day 8 they cap it and the queen begins to pupate. She hatches on day 15, 16 or 17. At some point during the time of pupation, the swarm will depart.

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Liz

Thank you! So if the queen cup becomes built out to a longer queen cell, there’s a good chance that there is an egg or larvae in there?

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